Nubuck shoes look premium for a reason. They have that soft, matte, slightly velvety finish that instantly upgrades an outfit. But they also come with one challenge: nubuck is sensitive. One wrong cleaner, too much water, or aggressive brushing can permanently ruin the texture.
If you own nubuck shoes—boots, sneakers, loafers or casual shoes—this guide will show you a safe, step-by-step cleaning method that protects the finish, removes dirt and stains, and helps you keep nubuck looking fresh for longer using a Helios-style routine.
1. Nubuck vs Suede: What’s the Difference?
Many people treat nubuck like suede. That’s the first mistake.
Suede is made from the inner side of the hide and is usually softer and more “hairy”.
Nubuck is made from the outer side of the hide and is lightly sanded to create a fine, velvet-like surface.
Nubuck tends to be:
More durable than suede
Slightly tighter in texture
More prone to showing oil marks and water stains if not protected
Because nubuck is “top-grain”, you must clean it with tools that lift dirt without flattening or polishing the surface.
2. What NOT To Do With Nubuck Shoes
If you want to keep the finish intact, avoid these completely:
Washing with soap or detergent
Soaking in water
Using regular leather polish or cream on the surface
Using wet wipes that leave chemical residue
Brushing with a hard plastic brush
Drying under direct sunlight or using a heater/hairdryer
These steps can make nubuck:
Patchy and uneven in colour
Hard and shiny (ruining the matte look)
Permanently stained due to water absorption
3. Tools You Need for Proper Nubuck Cleaning
To clean nubuck safely, you need a few simple items.
3.1 Nubuck/Suede brush
A dedicated brush with gentle bristles helps lift dirt and restore texture.
3.2 Nubuck eraser (or suede eraser)
Works best for scuffs, dry stains and light marks without water.
3.3 Microfiber cloth
Useful for light blotting (not rubbing) and wiping dust away.
3.4 Nubuck protector spray (highly recommended)
Protection is more important than cleaning for nubuck. A good protector spray makes stains easier to remove later and helps repel light moisture.
4. Step-by-Step: How To Clean Nubuck Shoes
Step 1: Let shoes dry completely
If shoes are muddy or damp, do not clean them immediately.
Let them dry naturally at room temperature.
Once the dirt dries, it becomes easier to lift without spreading stains.
Step 2: Dry brush to remove dust and loose dirt
Use a nubuck brush and work gently:
Brush in one direction first to lift surface dust.
Then brush lightly in short strokes to loosen dirt trapped in the grain.
Avoid pressing hard; pressure can flatten the finish.
This step alone improves most nubuck shoes dramatically.
Step 3: Use an eraser for marks and scuffs
For visible scuffs or darker patches:
Rub the nubuck eraser gently over the mark.
Work slowly—let friction lift the stain instead of force.
Brush again afterwards to restore texture and blend the cleaned patch.
This is the safest way to deal with most everyday nubuck marks.
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